Historic tavern turned local chophouse that’s a cut above
25 years of swapping pie-in-the-sky plans over a butcher’s counter have finally come to fruition for celebrated restaurateur and former Director of The Fat Duck Nigel Sutcliffe and his local butcher Barry Wagner who have fulfilled their shared dream to revitalise and reopen The Three Tuns in Henley-on-Thames.
The characterful 14th century pub has been the forever neighbour of the riverside town’s revered butchers shop Gabriel Machin whose owner Barry has counted Nigel amongst his loyal customers for almost three decades. The pair often joked about taking over the pub next door and when it came up for sale earlier this year, they seized the opportunity to collaborate. The result? A local joint like no other.
Now, after months of loving restoration, The Three Tuns has swung open its doors just in time for summer creating a welcoming space for the community to enjoy warm hospitality, top-quality butcher’s cuts, great ale, expertly selected wines, and an inviting sun-trap of a quaint walled courtyard.
Rooted in history, lovingly restored for the locals
The reopening of The Three Tuns marks a new chapter for one of Henley’s oldest pubs. Parts of the grade II listed building in the town’s Market Place dates back as far as 1385 and it is thought to have had several uses culminating in its final form as a public house by the 16th century.
Providing an embracing space that seats just 34 covers inside, entering The Three Tuns feels like being cocooned in a historic tavern complete with original features that benefit from gentle and tasteful enhancements by interior designers Alfred House. Working with the existing finishes of dark oak beams, red brick, terracotta tile, and copper, a restrained colour palette to walls and woodwork has served to highlight the building’s historical features and charm. Simple yet comfortable furniture in a mix of styles that speaks to the traditional context has been specially selected to create a harmonious feel and keep the space open.
In the bar, a creamy, rustic aesthetic with accents of dark green keeps focus on the room’s natural charm and creates intimate nooks and cosy corners to keep drinkers in comfort whilst windows with subtle glimmers of stained glass bring in softly filtered natural light. The pared back palette from the pub continues through into the Stable Bar where the added juxtaposition of lightly industrial elements such as enamel lights and zinc table tops creates a laid-back and casual ambience suited to the casual dining crowd.
Out back, a charming and surprisingly spacious walled courtyard awaits with bistro chairs and tables amongst the potted greenery providing ample room for almost double the number of patrons who can be catered to within. Fired up to satisfy summer BBQ cravings, The Boatshed provides a grill-slapping alternative to a la carte, throwing out a juicy variety of unbeatable burgers including a Classic Smashed Cheeseburger, a Beyond Meat Vegan Burger, and optional kimchi for an extra hit of heat; all available to enjoy there and then with a freshly pulled pint or to take away.
For something different to do on a Sunday evening, tuck into a selection of mouth-watering burgers from The Boatshed and enjoy live music from an impressive roster of talented, local musicians.
Dishes that are a cut above
Sutcliffe’s Truffle Hunting eateries, which include The Oarsman in Marlow, have an undeniable reputation for procuring the finest locally-sourced ingredients. With a quality butcher such as Barry now in on the act alongside the creativity and expertise of The Oarsman’s Executive Chef Scott Smith, it’s no surprise that The Three Tuns’ all-new seasonal menu is a cut above the competition.
Crafted with premium cuts straight from the Machin’s counter, appetite-provoking charcuterie of Fennel Salame, Jabugo Ham and Jesus Salame joins starters of Gabriel Machin Smoked Salmon with potato salad, Devilled Kidneys on toast, and Steak Tartare. The Butcher’s Board showcases a rotating selection of Machin’s finest fayre cooked to perfection by Scott’s award-winning skills that rule the robata grill. Hearty mains of Pork Chop with braised white beans and gremolata, and Lamb Cutlets with crisp house salad and new potatoes, sit alongside an array of steak cuts from Bavette right through to a 28oz Côte du Boeuf all served with béarnaise or gremolata, wild rocket and fries.
But the undeniable pièce de résistance has to be the Joints – a premium selection of succulent large joints which can be specially prepared to be shared family-style at the table when requested with 24 hours’ notice. Choose from Shoulder of Lamb, Fore Rib of Beef, and Venison Haunch all served with a selection of seasonal sides to add wow factor to any group get together.
From land to sea, Clams a la Plancha with aioli; Grilled Mullet and lentil vinaigrette; and Grilled Monkfish with caper butter lift the menu whilst meat-free dining is just as pleasing with; Vegetable Potage; Warm English Asparagus, duck egg & vinaigrette; creamy Burrata with salt- baked beetroot; and Roast Hispi Cabbage and mushroom XO.
Conclude a mealtime well-spent with something sweet from the small but perfectly-formed dessert menu including Basque Cheesecake with berries; Salted Chocolate Mousse; or 4 of Tim’s Cookies – baked by The Oarsman’s talented Kitchen Porter, and local hero, Tim as part of his marvellously moreish side-hustle.
And it’s worth noting that the taps in this pub don’t just pull pints. A brand new soft-serve machine is set to be the talk of the town with rotating toppings that feature millionaire-inspired shortbread & caramel, black-forest-style chocolate sponge & sour cherries, or crunchy meringue & lemon curd.
A selection of perfectly procured cheeses served alongside a homemade beetroot & pear chutney makes an ideal finishing touch or stand-alone snack. And those seeking a sugar-hit but feeling short on space can enjoy an artisan Jampot Coffee with a bar of the world’s most sustainable chocolate from Original Beans, guaranteed to satisfy the soul as well as a sweet tooth.
The taps & tipples
The foundation of any good local lies in the quality of the drinks. Luckily for patrons of this particular pub, hospitality-aficionado and oenophile Nigel Sutcliffe knows a thing or two about curating accessible yet discerning drinks lists that spotlight local talent. The Three Tuns takes its name from the 252 gallon barrel traditionally used to store and transport beer and wine, so regularly rotating house ales are a no brainer alongside crowd-pleasing lagers, IPAs and ciders.
Carefully selected English sparkling wines from vineyards in Sussex and Hampshire sit alongside an unexpectedly expansive list of whites, reds, rosés and oranges shipped from worlds Old and New. SNOBs to the core, Nigel’s chosen wines are Sustainable, Natural, Organic or Biodynamic wherever possible and the team has worked hard to bring together a range of a dozen well reputed bottles costing £35 and under, including an orange 2021 La Transición Blanco, Soto Manrique, Castilla y León from Spain. Rest assured that this is a list that never compromises on quality, and the higher up you venture, the better the value. The 2022 Côtes du Jura Chardonnay from Rijckaert and the 2021 Morgon Côte du Py from Javernière both come highly recommended.
Meanwhile a deliberately concise cocktail selection takes drinkers from spritzes to sours, all created by a bar team that’s only too happy to take requests if your favourite isn’t featured.
Bringing together the best of seasonal produce, attentive service, and local camaraderie in a true olde English pub setting, The Three Tuns is the kind of local everyone wants and Henley considers itself lucky to have.